1826. Фредерик Уильям Бичи. Frederick William Beechey.
Narrative of a voyage to the Pacific and Beering's Strait: to co-operate with the Polar expeditions: performed in His Majesty's Ship Blossom, under the command of Captain F.W. Beechey, R.N. ... in the years 1825,26,27,28.
Philadelphia: Carey & Lea, 1832
Стр. 206.
On the 26th, in latitude 49° N., after having traversed nearly seven hundred miles in so thick a fog that we could scarcely see fifty yards from us, a north-east wind cleared the horizon for a few hours : this change again produced a sensible diminution of the temperature, which was thirty-one degrees lower than it had been thirteen days previous. The next day we had the satisfaction of seeing the high mountains of Kamschatka, which at a distance are the best guides to the port of Awatska. The eastern mountain, situated twenty-five miles from Petropaulski, is 7.375 feet high by my trigonometrical measurment; another, which is the highest, situated N. 5° E. from the same place, and a little to the northward of a short range upon which there is a volcano in constant action, is 11.500 feet high. At eight o'clock we distinguished Cape Gavarea, the southern point of a deep bay in which the harbour of Petropaulski is situated, and the same evening we were becalmed within six miles of our port. Nothing could surpass the serenity of the evening or the magnificence of the mountains capped with perennial snows, rising in majestic array above each other. The volcano emitted smoke at intervals, and from a sprinkling of black dots on the snow to leeward of the crater, we concluded there had been a recent eruption.

At two o'clock the following afternoon we anchored off the town of Petropaulski, and found lying in the inner harbour his imperial majesty's ship Modeste, commanded by Baron Wrangel, an enterprising officer, well known to the world as the commander of a hazardous expedition on sledges over the ice to the northward of Schelatskoi Noss.

I found despatches awaiting my arrival, communicating the return of the expedition under Captain Parry, and desiring me to cancel that part of my instructions which related to him. The officers, on landing at the little town of Petropaulski, met with a very polite reception from the governor, Stanitski, a captain in the Russian navy, who, during our short stay in port, laid us under many obligations for articles of the most acceptable kind to seamen after a long voyage. I regretted extremely that confinement to my cabin at this time prevented my having the pleasure of making either his acquaintance or that of the pastor of Paratounka, of whose ancestor such honourable mention has been made in the voyages of Captain Cook, a pleasure which was reserved for the following year. The worthy pastor, in strict compliance with the injunctions of his grandfather, that he should send a calf to the captain of every English man of war that might arrive in the port, presented me with one of his own rearing, and sent daily supplies of milk, butter, and curd. Had our stay in this excellent harbour permitted, we should have received a supply of oxen, which would have been most acceptable to the ship's company; but the animals had to be driven from Bolcheresk, and, pressed as we were for time, too great a delay would have been incurred in waiting for them. The colony at this time was as much distressed for provisions as ourselves, and was even worse off, in consequence of the inferior quality of the articles.

On the 1st ot July we weighed and attempted to put to sea, but after experiencing the difficulties of which several navigators have complained, were obliged to anchor again, and that at too great a distance from the town to have any communication.

On the 2nd, as well as on the 3rd, we also weighed, but were obliged to anchor as before ; and it was not until the 5th, after weighing and anchoring twice that morning, to prevent going ashore, that the ship reached the outside of the harbour; this difficulty arises from counter currents, which prevent the steerage of the ship. After clearing the harbour there was a strong wind against us, but it soon died entirely away, and left us exposed to a heavy swell, which rolled with great violence upon the shore; so much so, that for some time the boats were insufficient to prevent the ship nearing the land, and there was no anchorage, in consequence of the great depth of water: fortunately, towards night a light air favoured our departure, and we succeeded in getting an offing.

My object was now to make the best of my way to Kotzebue Sound, as there were but fourteen days left before the arrival of the appointed time of rendezvous there, and every effort was directed towards that end. As we sailed across the wide bay in which Petropaulski is situated, we connected the capes at its extremities with the port and intermediate objects, by* which it appears that Cape Gavarea has hitherto been erroneously placed with regard to Chepoonski Noss; but I shall not here interrupt the narrative by the insertion of the particulars of the operations.

At day-light the following morning, Chepoonski Noss was seen N. 19° W., and in the afternoon of the next day high land was discerned from the mast-head in the direction of Krotnoi Mountain. This was the last view we had of Kamschatka, as a thick fog came on, and attended us to Beering's Island.

Стр 439
On the 2d of July (1826) we made the snowy mountains of Kamschatka, but did not reach the Bay of Awatska before the evening of the next day, when, after experiencing the difficulties which almost always attend the entry and egress of the port, we came to an anchor off the town of Petropaulski nearly in the same situation as before.

We found lying in the inner harbour the Okotsk Packet, a brig of 200 tons, commanded by a Russian sub-lieutenant, on the point of sailing with the mail for St. Petersburgh, and availed ourselves of the favourable opportunity of transmitting despatches and private letters by her. I received some official letters which had been too late for the ship the preceding year ; but neither in them nor in the Petersburgh Gazette, which finds its way occasionally to Kamschatka, was there intelligence to influence our proceedings, aDd we consequently began to refit the ship for her northern cruize. While this duty was in progress, we were also employed sounding and surveying the capacious bay and the harbours of Tareinski, Rakovya, and Petropaulski, the plans of those places which had been constructed by Captain King being by no means complete.

Before the ship was at an anchor we received from the governor, Captain Stankitski, a very acceptable present of some new potatoes, fresh butter, curds, and spring water—a mark of attention and politeness for which we were very thankful. On landing I had the pleasure to find all the colony in good health, but a little chagrined to learn the ship was not one of the periodical vessels from St. Petersburgh. As these vessels bring out every kind of supply for the inhabitants, they are most anxiously looked for; and if they are detained they occasion great inconvenience.

We endeavoured to supply some of the deficiences of the place by presents of flour, rice, tea, and bottled porter, and three large turtle, with some water-melons. Both the last-mentioned were great curiosities, as they had never been brought to the place before, or indeed seen by any of the inhabitants, except those in the goverment service. Much curiosity was consequently excited when the turtle were landed; and very few would at first believe such forbidding animals were intended to be eaten. As no person knew how to dress them, I sent my cook on shore, and they were soon converted into an excellent soup, some of which was sent round to each of the respectable inhabitants of the place ; but, as may be imagined, after having brought the animals so far, we were mortified at hearing several persons declare their preference for their own dishes made of seals' flesh. These turtle were the last of the supply we had taken on board at Port Lloyd, three having died upon the passage, and the ship's company having continued to consume two every day, which on an average was about five pounds a man. This lasted for about three weeks, during which time we saved half the usual allowance of provisions.

The season at Petropaulski was more backward than the preceding year ; and though it was the beginning of July, the snow lay deep upon some parts of the shore, and the inhabitants were glad to keep on their fur dresses.

The little town, which has been repeatedly described since King's visit, has beeu removed from the spit of land which forms the harbour, to a valley at the back of it, where there are several rows of substantial log-houses, comfortably fitted up inside, and warmed with large ovens in the centre, furnished with pipes for the conveyance of hot air. Glass for windows has partly superseded the lamina of talc, before used for that purpose. Neat wooden bridges have been thrown over the ravines which intersect the town, and a new church has been built. A guard-house and several field-pieces command the landing ; and a little to the northward there are magazines for powder and stores. Among other buildiugs in the town there is a hospital and a school. The yourts and balagans of which Captain King speaks are now only used as store-houses for fish.

The greater part of the houses are furnished with gardens ; but, being badly attended to, they produce very little. That attached to the government-house was in better order, and was planted with peas, beans, cabbages, lettuces, potatoes, radishes, cucumbers, and a few currant-trees which were blighted ; barley and a small quantity of wheat were also growing in its vicinity. Some new houses were erecting in the town in expectation of the arrival of some exiles from St. Petersburgh, as it was understood that several persons concerned in the conspiracy against the emperor were to be banished to this place. The town, upon the whole, was much neater than I expected to find it; and I by no means agree with Captain Cochrane, that it is a contemptable place, and a picture of misery and wretchedness. Considering the number of years it has been colonized, and that it is part of the Russian Empire, it ought certainly to have become of much more importance ; but it does not differ so materially from the accounts of it that have been published, as to create disappointment on visiting the place, and it appeared to me that nothing is promised in those accounts which the place itself does not afford.

It was with much pleasure we noticed in the governor's garden the monument of our departed countryman Captain Clerke, which for better preservation had been removed from its former position by the late governor. It was on one side of a broad gravel walk, at the end of an avenue of trees. On the other side of the walk, there was a monument to the memory of the celebrated Beering. The former it may be recollected, was erected by the officers of Captain Krusenstern's ship; and the latter had been purposely sent from St. Petersburg. This mark of respect from the Russians toward our departed countryman calls forth our warmest gratitude, and must strengthen the good understanding which exists and is daily increasing between the officers of their service and our own. The monument will ever be regarded as one of the greatest interest, as it marks the places of interment of the companions of the celebrated Cook and Beering, and records the generosity of the much-lamented Perouse, who placed a copper plate over the grave of our departed countryman Captain Clerke; and of the celebrated Admiral Krusenstern, who erected the monument, and affixed a tablet upon it to the memory of the Abbe de la Croyere. Such eminent names, thus combined, create a regret that the materials on which they are engraved are not as imperishable as the memory of the men themselves.
Было весьма приятно нам заметить в саду губернатора памятник нашему покойному соотечественнику капитану Кларку, который [хоть памятник, хоть и покойный Кларк]для лучшего сохранения был перенесен с прежнего места бывшим губернатором. Он стоит с краю широкой гравийной пешеходной дорожки, где кончается поперечная аллея. По другую сторону дорожки – памятник, посвященный знаменитому Берингу. Первый, как помним, был сооружен офицерами корабля капитана Крузенштерна; второй специально был прислан из Санкт-Петербурга. Этот знак уважения русских к нашему покойному соотечественнику вызывает нашу самую теплую благодарность и должен усилить взаипонимание, которое существует и ежедневно крепнет между офицерами их и нашими. Памятник когда-нибудь станет объектом самого большого интереса, поскольку отмечает места погребения соплавателей знаменитых Кука и Беринга и помнит великодушие горько оплакиваемого Лаперуза, который поместил медную пластину на могиле нашего покойного соотечественника капитана Кларка; также и знаменитого адмирала Крузенштерна, который установил памятник и прикрепил табличку на него в память аббата де ла Кройера. Столь выдающиеся имена, здесь соединившиеся, оставляют лишь сожалеть, что материалы, на которых они вырезаны, не столь долговечны, как память о самих этих мужах.
[Делиль де ла Кройер никакой не аббат; аббатом был его однофамилец, поэт. Ошибку Бичи повторяет позже французский капитан Дюпти-Туар. Заметим: Бичи считает, что де ла Кройер также покоится под перенесенным обелиском.]

Since Admiral Krusenstern visited Kamschatka, several alterations have been made, probably in consequence of the suggestions in his publication. The seat of government is now fixed at Petropaulski, the town is considerably improved, and the inhabitants are better supplied than formerly. Still much remains to be accomplished before Petropaulski can be of consequence in any way, except in affording an excellent asylum for vessels. In this respect it is almost unequalled, being very secure, and admirably adapted to the purpose of any vessel requiring repair ; but for this she will have to depend entirely upon her own resources, as their is nothing to be had in the country but fish, wood, water, and fresh beef.

The population of the town at the beginning of the winter of 1826 was not more than three hundred and eighty-five persons, exclusive of the government establishment; the occupation of the people consists principally in curing fish and providing for a long winter, during which, with the exception of those persons who go into the interior for furs, there is very little to occupy the inhabitants.

There are no manufactures in the country, nor any establishments which require notice. The inhabitants have an idea that the climate is to cold to produce crops of wheat and other grain, and neglect almost entirely the cultivation of the soil. The consequence of this is, that they occasionally suffer very much from scurvy, and are dependent upon the supplies which are sent from St. Petersburgh every second year for all their farinaceous food; and if these vessels are lost the greatest distress ensues. Many attempts have been made to persuade them to attend to agriculture ; rewards have been offered by the government for the finest productions ; and seeds are distributed to the people every spring. In the autumn there is a fair at which those persons who have received seeds are required to attend, and to bring with them specimens of the fruit of their labour. The persons who are most deserving then receive rewards, and the day finishes with a feast and a dance. In spite of these encouragements, the gardens are very little attended to. Hay, though it is got in at the proper season, is in such inadequate proportion to the wants of the cattle, that were it not for wild garlic they would famish before the spring vegetation commences. The flavour that is communicated to the milk and butter by the use of this herbage, appears to be so familiar to the inhabitants that they find nothing unpleasant in it; but it is very much the reverse with strangers. Every family has one or two cows, of which great care is taken during the winter, and, strictly speaking, some of the inhabitants live under the same roof with their animals, with no other partition than a screen of single boards. There are very few oxen in the town, and when required they are driven from Bolcheresk, about ninety miles off, where pasturage is more abundant. Beef is consequently a luxury seldom enjoyed ; and sheep and goats cannot exist in the country, in consequence of the savage nature of the dogs, which are very large, and occasionally break away from their fastenings: fish therefore constitutes the principle food of the inhabitants.

Necessarily frugal, and blessed with a salubrious climate, the residents in general enjoy good health, and appear to lead a contented life. They are extremely fond of the amusement of dancing, and frequently meet for this purpose. There are several musicians, and musical instruments are manufactured by an ingenious exile. As spirituous liquors of any kind in the country are scarce, these meetings are not attended with any inebriety, and serve only to pass away the dull hours of a long winter's evening. The only refreshment we saw produced at them consisted of whortle and cran-berries ; these were piled up in two or three plates with a dessert-spoon to each, and passed round the company, almost every body using the same spoon. Society is necessarily very mixed, or there could be none in so small a population, and when strangers are not present it is not unusual to see exiles at the governor's parties.

In the winter sledging is a favourite occupation. The dogs are here very large and swift, and are so much esteemed that they are carried to Okotsk for sale. For a description of this amusement, and other recreations of the Kamschatdales, I must refer the reader to Cook's Voyage, to Captain Cochrane's Pedestrian Journey, and to the entertaining Travels of Mr. Dobell, who quitted Kamschatka a short time before we arrived.

At present the only trade carried on at Petropaulski is in furs, which are exchanged for goods brought annually from Okotsk. Every thing is excessively dear, even the necessary article salt is in great demand, and produces a very high price.

The Bay of Awatska and the harbours which open into it leave nothing to be desired in the way of a port. Awatska has many square miles of ground which may be appropriated to secure anchorage, and Tareinski is the beau ideal of a harbour. Petropaulski, though small, has a sufficient depth of water for a first-rate in every part of it. The ground is good, and the smoothness of the water is never affected by any weather upon the coast. As Awatska is nearly surrounded by high land, gusts of wind are of frequent occurrence, particularly opposite Rakovya harbour : on this account it is advisable to moor or ride with a long scope of cable. The entrance to the port is narrow and about four miles in length, and as the wind almost always blows up or down the channel, ships frequently have to beat in and out, and experience great difficulty in so doing, from the confined space to which they are limited, and the eddy currents, which in the spring-time in particular must be carefully guarded against. There are but two shoals in the harbour which it is necessary to notice ; one off Rakovya, upon which there is a buoy; and the other off the signal station on the west side of the entrance of Awatska Bay.

Much has been said of the neglected condition of the settlement, and volumes have been written on the government, inhabitants, productions, and on the actual and prospective state of the country ;* still there have been no exertions on the part of the government materially to improve or provide for either one or the other. Its neglected state is probably of very little consequence at present; but should the North Pacific ever be the scene of active naval operations, Petropaulski must doubtless become of immense importance. At present it may be said to be unfortified, but a very few guns judiciously placed would effectually protect the entrance.

On the 18th of July, having completed the survey of the bay of Awatska and its harbours, we took our leave of the hospitable inhabitants, and weighed anchor; but, as on the former occasion, we were obliged to make several unsuccessful attempts to get out, and did not accomplish our object until the 20th, when we shaped…